The Other Side of Tibet

In this time and age, where mankind perceives human rights as a given birth right, it is shocking to realize that there are still millions born into imprisonment. This is the sad story of Tibet, a country with such distinct culture and captivating nature, all of which have been destroyed by the Great Leap Forward, a socio-economic plan led by Chairman Mao in 1959 to transform China into a modern communist country.

The Chinese government, under the false pretense of helping to provide education, only set up schools in cities and not in the rural areas where majority of the Tibetan nomads live.  Local Chinese have been encouraged to move into Tibet with the sinister aim of weeding out the original residents. Present day ethnic cleansing is what it is.

Every Tibetan I met in Dharamsala had his/her own story to tell. Each, a touching journey of endurance and hope. Sangye, my Tibetan cooking class teacher escaped his beloved homeland when he was just 22 years old with his best friend. Being young and reckless, the duo trekked over the himalayan mountains with only some dried cheese and meat. They braved the bone-chilling winter, when the Chinese soldiers hid in the warmth of their barracks and miraculously arrived in Nepal 28 days later without losing any body parts to frost bite. 3 days after, they were put on a bus to Dharamsala, India where Sangye has remained ever since.

Families risk their lives to escape and seek refuge in India, where the exiled Tibetan Government currently operates from. If caught by the Chinese soldiers, individuals are immediately put into jail as a political prisoner and subjected to creative torture techniques. However, if successful, exiled Tibetans have a chance at the taste of freedom. Freedom to exercise their fundamental rights of simply being Tibetan. Children are provided with free education, food and accommodation. Refugees look forward to meet their revered spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama. Back in Tibet, any mention of the Dalai Lama, or the mere possession of His Holiness' picture could potentially put a Tibetan into prison.


Even then, life in India does not define freedom in the way most of us are accustomed to. Tibetan refugees are given a residential card which they will need to renew on a yearly basis. None of them have passports, which means that they can only remain in India. Most of them still have families back in Tibet, loved ones whom they will probably never meet again. Going back to Tibet is far too risky and even phone calls back home might be tapped by the Chinese Government, causing trouble for the families there.

Many Tibetans still speak passionately about their motherland and their fight for freedom. This is due to the efforts of the Dalai Lama and also international volunteers who are continuously bringing awareness to the world. However, time is running out as the younger generation assimilates with the rest of China.

Tibetan monks in the Dalai Lama's Temple in Dharamsala lighting lamps symbolizing renewed hope for freedom

We can do our little part in supporting the plight to free Tibet, not necessarily through donations, but simply by creating awareness among people we know, for it is only through awareness can we expect change to happen.

Delightful Dharamsala

At the mere mention of 'India' these are the first words that flash across one's mind - Spices! Curry! Taj Mahal! Ghandi! Bollywood! Rarely is India labeled a sanctuary, a refuge, a saviour, precisely what she has been, to a nation that never ceased to intrigue people from all around the world - TIBET.

Dharamsala was not part of the initial plan for my route through India. But as if a blessing in disguise, unfavourable weather conditions forced me to abort my trekking trip to the beautiful Valley of Flowers, an area which has recorded over 500 species of floral splendour. A few days earlier, Mägie, my Swiss friend had raved endlessly about Dharamsala. Aaron, the chatty vegetarian chef from England shared the same sentiments, along with Elisheva, the bubbly American Isreali, Takako, the Japanese expatriat, and the list of international fans goes on. That night I dreamed I was a Tibetan nomad riding freely through the vast dry plains of my mystical country.

I found myself for the next 8 days magnetically drawn to Mcleod Ganj, a suburb of Dharamsala which had officially become home to the exiled Tibetan government and thousands of refugees for the past five decades. It was a struggle to suppress my high expectations of this popular destination but the minute I stepped out of the bus, I knew I wouldn't be disappointed. That was the moment I fell in love with the little town of Mcleod Ganj and its Tibetan residents.

I was lucky enough to capture this on my camera - a spectacular 15 minute lightning show that graced the skies on the night of my arrival.

Every morning I was greeted by the cool fresh air and magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. First class pampering for the senses.

Mcleod Ganj boasts a smorgasbord of activities. So much to do in so little time!!! Pamper yourself with a Tibetan massage, challenge your limbs to a Yoga class, discover your healing powers by taking up a Reiki course, recreate tibetan delicacies at home by signing up for a cooking class, commit a good deed by volunteering at a tibetan refugee center, go bonkers shopping for cyrstals, thangkas and singing bowls, be shocked listening to ex-political prisoners retell their tale of escape and survival, release that little adventurer in you by exploring the nearby waterfalls and pine forests, be mesmerized by the animated stomping and clapping of tibetan monks debating away over spiritual teachings, and much more...

Simple, hearty, rustic and delicious tibetan cuisine can easily be found at every corner of the street. Tibetan food all the way for me...keep the momos coming!!!

Dharamsala is undoubtedly my favourite place in India. If one had not known better, this colourful display of life seems to reflect joy, happiness and prosperity of its people. However, there lies a deeper and darker truth to what lurks beneath this facade. A past of tragedy, a present of growing awareness, and a future that relies on the compassionate nature within all of us.

....TO BE CONTINUED...